xcess is no longer in fashion. Creativity is the new luxury.
A major goal of More Or Less is to provoke thought about the decisions we make when we buy clothes – factoring in the realities of cost and consumption. I also wanted to offer a glimpse of how real people actually dress without sacrificing the transportive magic and fantasy of fashion.
More Or Less is not another magazine showcasing only current-season fashion. Vintage, army surplus, sportswear, old school uniforms, craft, rubbish – all are fair game.
A symptom of our see-now-buy-now, click-to-buy modernity is immediate gratification and overindulgence. In this rapid-fire exchange, little time is devoted to asking “Do I need this? Do I even want this?”
I originally set out to make a magazine where every head-to-toe look would come in at less than £500. I presented the idea to Livia Firth, who produced the documentary The True Cost about the environmental impact of the fashion industry. “Why so cheap?” she argued. “You need to be careful. If you go too cheap, you’re not paying for the actual price of what things cost, you’re supporting unethical working conditions at factories around the world.” I adjusted the price range to include outfits up to somewhere in the region of £1,000 (as well as focusing on certain brands that prioritise sustainability).
A happy accident I found in making this issue was the underlying theme of close relationships. Kate Moss was styled by her best friend (and secret fashion adviser) James Brown. Jamie Hawkesworth’s 26-page odyssey documents his dear friend and creative producer Sylvia Farago (and her extensive collection of band T-shirts). Francesca Burns and Angelo Pennetta are a couple, and recreated looks from her youth. The inseparable Chloë Sevigny and Haley Wollens’s joint closet clean-up inspired their shoot. And we are also forging a relationship with Red Hook Labs, a Brooklyn-based organisation that teaches photography – every issue we’ll mentor a student (two this issue) and publish their work.
The spiritual connection to fashion and style feels important in a world where surface projections seem to prevail.